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Boten
Land of opportunity and life

When imagining a special economic zone in Laos, images often come to mind of a casino bustling with gamblers. Boten used to have that image, but due to the crime problem in the area, concessionaires changed hands. In 2011, the Lao government awarded a concession to Yunnan Haicheng, transforming the image of the area from a crime-ridden and violent border casino area into a border town full of opportunities and safe living. Yunnan Haicheng’s project focuses on developing the city into a modern city suitable for residents, with many facilities, including shopping malls, hospitals, plans to establish industrial estates, and cultural tourism attractions that connect with nature.

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In the previous episode of Boten, Beauty in Laos (3) At the end of the Laos-China railway at Boten, the beautiful land (see more at https://www.chinaseasia.net/storiesoflaos3), we presented an overall picture of Boten, including hotels, restaurants, and various construction projects. Six months after returning to Boten, we found that many restaurants had disappeared, such as the Lao restaurant on the corner next to the Jing Land Hotel, a Thai pub and restaurant called Bangkok, etc. They were replaced by new restaurants and others, such as gift shops, game shops, cake shops, and grocery stores. Many areas that used to look empty are now filled with Chinese people who want to do business. We talked to many shop owners and found that these Chinese owners come from many cities and provinces in China. Many came to Boten because their husbands worked here or had businesses in Laos. They moved to work in trade or to own businesses in countries like Laos where costs are lower.

This time we tried a new hotel, a Chinese hotel managed by a Luang Namtha manager. The hotel is located in a condo building that was built and sold as individual rooms. These Chinese entrepreneurs then turned the rooms into a hotel or bought entire floors of rooms to operate as a business, in a similar manner.

The hotel we stayed in was in two buildings. The ground floor of these buildings was opened as various shops, including a restaurant, a hair salon, a shipping center, and a gift shop selling cosmetics, accessories, and sleepwear. From talking to the owner, we learned that she was from Hubei and had only been here a month. She used to farm flowers in China, but her husband came to work in Boten, so she intended to open a fresh flower shop here. However, after looking at the situation, it seemed unlikely that it would be successful, so she switched to selling gift items shipped from China. The area is mostly residential, and it is not a zone where tourists come to shop. About two blocks away is a street that can be called Boten's economic district, which at night is full of tourists and night owls, and there are many types of shops and services welcoming you. If you walk to the end of the street, there will be stalls along the way, selling everything from vegetables, fruits, fresh food to clothes, bags, and mobile phone cases. We understand that this is a move to move the market that used to be a street market in the alleys of buildings to a stall to create order instead.

At noon the next day, after exploring the city again, it was very quiet during the day, with hardly any people walking on the streets. Returning to the main street, we decided to have lunch at a newly opened Pho Lao restaurant, which was larger than two shop houses. Although the name of the restaurant was Pho Lao, the owner was a middle-aged Chinese woman originally from Hunan. After talking, she said that she had previously worked for a salaried job, and had never opened a restaurant like this. She chose to open here because her husband worked for Haicheng Company in Boten.

Opposite the Pho Lao restaurant is Khao Ram Fuen Restaurant, one of the few restaurants still open since our last visit. The owner is a middle-aged Chinese woman. She said that she moved to Laos in 2015, initially from Luang Prabang, then moved to Vientiane, and opened this restaurant earlier this year. Her family owns an excavator business, which her husband and son are in charge of, and is currently constructing a highway in Laos. She intended to open this restaurant for her daughter to manage and take care of, but her daughter is now back in Kunming, and she will soon be going back to China due to illness, as it is difficult to get a doctor there. The restaurant did quite well before. She used to use three adjacent rooms to sell food, earning over 10,000 yuan a day, but now she can’t make that much money. She said that this is because trains now run directly into China, so there aren’t as many customers as before. Another Chinese restaurant, owned by a Hunanese owner, sells fried fish and other Chinese dishes, and said that there aren’t many customers these days, and sales aren’t good because “no cars are coming in.”

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The 'no cars' here refers to the train connecting Laos and China or the Boten-Mohane border. Passengers do not have to leave Boten station to stop and wait and cross the border to board the train on the Chinese side. Initially, most passengers who wanted to travel across the border had to stop and wait in Boten for one night to cross the border first. Because during the COVID situation, the Laos-China Railway did not provide a direct service from Vientiane to Kunming. But later, the train started selling tickets that could travel across the border. The need to stop at Boten was no longer necessary.

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Although the number of train passengers stopping at Boten has decreased, Boten is still lively at night, especially the 'massage' shops, which are lit with purple and pink lights. At the same time, the number of workers working on construction projects has also increased. The construction buildings along the way are not abandoned, but there are always workers. Even the number of young girls working in restaurants has clearly increased.

พื้นหลังสีขาว

* This work is part of the research information dissemination activity to the public under the project "Cross-border China Railway: A Comparative Study of the Impacts of Railway Construction Projects on Communities Around Main Stations in Thailand and Laos", funded by the Office of the Higher Education, Science, Research and Innovation Policy Council (NSTDA) by the Human Resource Development and Institutional Development Fund Management Unit (NHRC) for fiscal years 2021 - 2023.

** The research project is currently underway. The published content is part of the data collection and is not a conclusion of the research results.

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Phanitda Saiyoras

Project Leader

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Plaifha Namphrai

Research Assistant

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Kesone Kanhalikham

Research Assistant

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